Day 33 - Santiago to Negreira

 

So, after a bit of a whirlwind arrival into Santiago, this morning I left, walking the Camino to Finisterre. The weather forecast, from Sunday onwards, is for rain so I have rearranged my schedule and postponed my sightseeing tour of Santiago (and the Cathedral) until after I have walked to Finisterre and then possibly Muxia, which is also on the Coast. 

Finisterre used to be thought of at the end of the land i.e. the finish. Just like 'Lands end' in the UK. Traditionally, lots of people like to finish the other Caminos which end in Santiago, with the Finisterre Camino, and throw a stone, which they have brought with them, into the sea.

I had another lie-in this morning as I wanted to get some provisions in the supermercados, and they didn’t open until 9am so there was no point in getting up early. 

Once I had shopped, I wandered down through the streets of Santiago, already remembering some of the route from the day before.  The front of the Cathedral looked very different this morning. Gone were the huge crowds of yesterday. Today, it felt like I could breathe, and just enjoy looking at the huge grand building. I would have to leave it until next week, when I could spend more time sight seeing and attending the 12:00 pilgrims mass.

It felt good to be walking again and I was soon out of the city. I walked until the sun was shining on me and I could find a convenient seat. Today it was a rock on the ground. After eating, it was already warm enough to take my jacket off. Today’s temperature was set to be 26 degrees, which for me is very hot, and I wanted to be at my albergue well before then.

I was pleasantly surprised at the state of the track and sign posting. Now I was off the Camino Frances, I was expecting more of a small track and sketchy signposting. But now, it seemed to be the same standard as the Frances. So, no excuses to get lost then?

I was also extremely pleased to see very fewer walkers. It was such a contrast to the last couple of days on the Camino. I did see other walkers occasionally sitting down for a break but nothing of the gangs of walkers I had to navigate around to get past over the past few days.

I thought I would use the hiking poles, that Chris gave me today, to see if they would assist my progress. They drive me a bit mad, I must confess. They have rubber feet on, but they still make a racket. Then I came to a huge hill that climbed for 3.5km. They really did help to power me up, especially as it was quite warm by then. Eventually I gave in and had to stop for a short break. I had a peak at my phone’s map app, and looked at the route profile page that I hadn’t looked at before. The app showed that I was only half way up the hill. I thought, well that’s faulty, surely I am near the top already? Shortly, I came to see that the app was correct and I couldn’t believe how long it just climbed up and up. Eventually I made it to the top, picked up the two poles and carried them for the rest of the journey, mainly downhill.

As I got to the albergue, about 2pm, I was already quite hot and glad to get a shower and wash my clothes.

Tomorrows walk is about 34km so hopefully I will make an early exit well before dawn.


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