Day 19 – Calzadilla De Los Hermanillos to Puente Villarente

I think it may have just been me and a German lady staying in the albergue. It seems like everyone else went on the normal route. We both went into dinner and sat at separate tables (as you do) but I started speaking to her and then she came over and joined me for dinner. The meals in albergues seem to be the same where ever I stay. Occasionally there is some Spanish dish, but normally it is some meat and chips or salad and meat, not what I expected. Her English was quite good and so we were able to have a enjoyable conversation.

She started her Camino in Vezelay in France, a 1000km before St Jean, where I started! She started on the 18 June, but somewhere along the route, she developed tendonitis in her feet. She couldn’t move. She was staying in a convent at the time and the nuns said she could stay until she got better. It was only after 3 weeks that she was well enough to carry on. She promised to return to the convent (not walking!) once she has reached Santiago.

I had my dorm of 4 beds to myself, which was lovely. No one snoring (apart from me). In the morning I was able to get up with the light on and pack my bag with ease.

The route today carried on the route of the original roman road. It is the longest stretch of roman road left in Spain today. I set off with my tee shirt on as it had been quite warm yesterday. I was quite hot from walking but my arms and hands seem to be getting colder as I walked on.

I tried to ignore it, telling myself that the sun would be up soon. But in the end, I had to give in and put my walking jacket on. Still I was getting colder as we were dropping into a valley. So, again I stopped and got the beany hat out of my bag. When I was packing at home, I thought I would never need it, but had packed it just in case. I put it in along with some gloves, but the gloves were in the bottom of my bag as I thought I would never need them. There was no way I was going to get them out in the dark and on a rough track, miles from anywhere. I stuffed may hands in my pockets and started walking faster to keep warm.

Eventually, I started to feel some warmth from the sun, but it wasn’t until 10 am that I felt warm enough to take my hat and jacket off. 

I re-joined the main track at Mansilla de las Mulas and then turned west again to Puente Villarente. 

This was the first day that I had set out without accommodation booked at the other end. Traditionally, this is how it was always done with most albergues not taking bookings. I got to my chosen albergue at 1pm and booked without any problems. In fact, I was the first to arrive that day.
I hope to continue this way, not booking in advance as it gives me more freedom but with the risk of having no where to stay.

This albergue has a lovely garden area and you can see how many pilgrims they can cater for. At the moment, I think there are only a few here.

Lastly, does anyone know what this tree is called?


Comments

  1. You have grown a fine pair of eyebrows!!!
    🦡🦡
    Barbara will know that 🌳!!

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  2. Amazing photos and updates Martin, and I bet a great change to have the place to yourself for a night! I'm reliably informed (by my phone) that the tree is a Honey Locust! Apparently the pod (but not the seeds/beans are edible! https://eattheplanet.org/honey-locust-menacing-thorns-protecting-a-sweet-treat/

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    Replies
    1. On further reading it also has a toxic lookalike (evil twin!?), but interesting to read, and see nonetheless! :)

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    2. More great photos Martin and it looks as though you’re meeting lots of new friends.
      One thing I’ve noticed from your photos is how straight the tracks are which means you can put yourself on automatic pilot. Don’t know if this is a good or bad thing!

      Presumably there is somewhere to recharge your phone overnight?
      Tim

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    3. Thanks James, just as well that I'm not that hungry🤣

      And Tim, yes the tracks can be very straight and long. It can be difficult at times to walk an hour or 2 with little change. It can feel like I am not making any progress. Today was particularly difficult in that respect.
      Yes, no problems with power. All the albergues are well equipped with power sockets and variable wifi

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  3. I think the tree is a honey locust.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Barbara. James came back with that too so it must be right 😁
      Such a strange name tho!

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    2. The idea about John the Baptist eating locusts and honey in the desert is thought to refer to the locust or carob tree so it could be either as the comment below suggests. I think it’s far more likely he ate the tree seeds than actual
      Locusts - yuck!

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  4. Hi Martin, the tree may be a carob. They are grown for animal folder down here. But, the ones here have dark almost black beans once ripe. You'll know if it's carb by the lovely smell. But, better check at your next stop just in cas!

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  5. The pods are edible but not the bean inside. Did you know that the carob bean was used to weigh gold and diamonds because every bean is a uniform weight. The term carot comes from carob.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks Susan. That's a really interesting about gold and carot. I never knew that.
      I'll remember to smell them before I eat them but I'm still not sure if you eat the pods or the seads?

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  6. You eat the pods and not the seeds. Seeds impossible to eat as rock hard like diamonds. Ha, ha. Carob tastes a bit weird to me, very sweet, an acquired taste I guess.

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