Day 27 – Samos to Morgade

The two italian friends

The route today was in two halves, from Samos to Sarria and from Sarria to Morgade. Sarria is the main starting point for people who want to walk to Santiago and get the Compostella which stipulates a minimum of 100km on foot, bike or horse. Potentially, this last part could be very busy with lots of Spaniards taking the route, especially as next Tuesday is a bank holiday in Spain.

The first part of the journey from Samos started out well, walking on the gravel path next to the LU-633 main road, which carries fast traffic and winds through the countryside. After 3 or 4 miles, I followed the yellow arrows off the road and down a woodland path. I came to a junction of paths with no arrows. There could have been some but it was still dark and I couldn’t find any in the light of my head torch.

I got out the map on my phone, as I do many times a day, and found that I was off the route, or rather the route on my map followed the main road and not the route across country. So, I retraced my tracks and took the old road route, little realising what a nightmare journey I was starting. At first, I just thought I would be able to follow the old track but I found the old track inside the crash barrier was overgrown and so I had to walk outside the barrier. It wasn’t a very busy road and with my head torch, the oncoming traffic could see me and move out to avoid me, but I was very uncomfortable and there was little I could do about it. To make it worse, after about 3 miles it started to become foggy! Walking as fast as I could, I successfully made it into Sarria, which was about another 5 or 6 miles.

In Sarria, I found a bench to sit on and catch my breath. It was obviously near to some schools and it felt a bit surreal sitting there watching parents rushing to bring their little children to school. It felt like on the Camino, I was in a different world and not part of this sort of life anymore.

I walked on through the city following the arrows again. I realised that suddenly there were lots of peregrinos in front of me. Most of them were just starting out on their 112km walk to Santiago. There was a bit of a traffic jam of pilgrims trying to get out of the city. Eventually, as we climbed the hill, we were treated to glorious view, with the sun now feeling warm on my back.

 I then bumped into the two Italian friends who I have met 2 days before walking in the rain. I shouted out to the one with both rucksacks, “God save the queen” and he instantly remembered me, and we both laughed. I still don’t know their names, but the one who was disabled, asked me how I was feeling. I was quite touched by his question. If anyone should have been inquiring, it should have been me asking him! What two lovely friends they were.

The journey from Sarria was along lovely woodland tracks, just like back at home. The sky was blue and the air was warming up and I was feeling quite relieved that this mornings experience was well behind me and I could enjoy my walking again.

The local farmer moving his cows on his motorbike!

I reached the albergue about 12:30 and so had a restful afternoon (once I had done my chores). I am now just short of the 100km to Santiago mark. I have a number of short days planned ahead, so that, all being well, I arrive in Santiago next Wednesday, the day after the Spanish public holiday.