Day 12 - Villafranca Montes De Oca to Cardenuela Rio Pico

Last night, the hotel connected to the albergue was offering a pilgrim meal for 15 euros. If you were on your own like me, or in a group of 4, you got a bottle of lovely red wine per table, a bottle of water, bread and a 3 course dinner. I didn’t quite finish my bottle of wine but I haven’t been quite so drunk for a long time. 

I sat next to a British couple from Bournemouth. They were very friendly and it was lovely to speak to someone from back home. In fact, we discovered that we have the same flight back to the UK. So I will be seeing them again.

Despite last night’s wine, I was up again before dawn but as we were over at 1000 meters elevation, the forest of oak trees was covered in fog. I was climbing quite steeply, as the path wound it’s was up the hillside, stopping only briefly to catch my breath. I think my fitness levels are increasing with every day.

I had to hold my head torch in my hand as on my head, it just reflected back from the fog. But once the day brightened, the fog lifted. It wasn’t until lunch time that the sun broke through the clouds, which at last brought some warmth for the day. With only my tee shirt on,  my arms and hands had been quite cold all morning.

Since started the Camino, there have been these delicate Crocus flowers managing to survive despite the poor soil. 

I passed a monument to those who had been summarily executed in Spain’s civil war in 1936. It was also the site on their shallow graves. I have passed several memorials to those who suffered through this period in Spain’s history and I suspect there are many who still feel the loss of their family members.

I wanted to look in the church at San Juan de Ortega (St John of the nettle) as there is a sculpture of the virgin Mary on one of the pillars which is lit up by the suns rays on the equinox (today by chance). Unfortunately when I arrived, the albergue looked closed up and the church was closed until 1pm.

The landscape is constantly changing as I walk day by day. Gone are the dark red soils and field after field of vines with their sweet, dark red, grapes. Gone too are the fields of sunflowers. I am now entering the high Meseta region. The landscape is much more bare with just smaller trees and grasses and larger crop fields or barley and wheat. Some of the pilgrims I have spoken to have asked if I am going to bypass the area by bus. It had a reputation of being hard and hot days walking pass endless crop fields. I shall carry on and walk the whole way if I am able.

But before that, tomorrow brings the city of Burgos. I am not a fan of cities but I’ll walk through the old heart of the city and experience the sites and visit the cathedral (if it’s not shut until 1pm!)

 I have been asked about how luxurious the accommodation is at the albergues. Here is a snap of my current shared dorm. There are just 4 sharing here tonight. It's clean and comfortable, which is what I need.